Basic Gear Required
There are a lot of ways to use off-camera flashes, but basically all you need is a common flash, a camera and a sync method (a way of connecting your camera and remote flash). The syncing can be done using wires, or with triggers, syncing the flashes remotely.
The choice between wired or remote is up to you, but in my experience, start using remote triggers straight away. Wired flashes limit your range and also your creativity.
Camera Requirements
Returning to the basics, the minimal gear you need is a camera with a hot shoe or a PC-Sync jack. Most cameras have hot shoes for flashes - even some of the modern point and shoot models. A PC-Sync jack isn’t so common, but some cameras have it - just check your manual!
Flash Requirements
Next step is the flash. There are many kinds of flashes, many brands and many types, but there are some ways to know if you have the right one. First, you need to have a hot shoe flash, and optionally with an optic slave or a PC-Sync jack.
Another good feature to look for is manual power, because when you use external lighting, "through-the-lens metering" (TTL) for these lights is only possible using expensive triggers. As you'll likely be starting out with a small budget, these might well be out of your price range for now. Here are some flashes you can buy, ordered by price:
Yongnuo Manual Flash YN460-II: One of the cheapest ones, for $60 you can have a 38 guide number manual flash. Power can be stopped down from 1/1 to 1/64.
Yongnuo Manual Flash YN560: This one is the powerful version of the YN460. For only $80, you get the power of a 580EX II / SB800 and the ability to stop down to 1/128. Another nice feature is the zooming head (from 24mm up to 105mm) and the optical slave.
Cactus AF45: Finally, this is a $120 TTL flash. With a 45 guide number, you have plenty power, and also manual mode, going down to 1/16. Optical slave is also included.
These are three of the cheapest flashes available at present, but if you're happy to look for second hand equipment, you can pick up a real bargain. A good point to remember is that when using manual flashes there is rarely any need to buy the version specifically produced for your camera brand. This is only necessary with TTL flashes.
For example, it’s possible to use Nikon flashes remotely with a Canon camera. My recommendation is to buy 2-3 manual flashes instead of one expensive TTL flash. You can have one in your bag, just for the days you don’t have the opportunity or the time to use several lights, but you'll learn a great deal more from perfecting a lighting setup manually, and a few extra strobes are always useful!
Syncing and Triggers
Now that you have your camera and your flash, the one thing left is a way to sync the flash remotely. The best possibility is using a trigger. There are many kinds of triggers in the market. From the cheap $20 Chinese triggers, to the expensive $200 Pocket Wizards.
My advice is to start using something cheap, and experiment a lot. Here are a few of the triggers you can find on Gadget Infinity:
Cactus V2s 4-Channel trigger set ($32): This is the cheapest trigger you can find, and they’re quite reliable. It’s made out of plastic, and it breaks easily, but it does the job quite well. Don’t expect long range or high speed syncing, but for a start it’s OK.
Cactus V4 wireless trigger set ($40): This is the latest model of the Cactus series. I actually use these with all my flashes, and they’re a great deal. Cheap, and they never let me down. It’s a bit more expensive than the V2s, but it’s worth it.
Pixel Knight TR-331/332 wireless trigger set ($150): This trigger enables wireless TTL along with a maximum range of 65m and high speed syncing. It is interesting to use in no-time situations, like a wedding. On the other hand, if you use your flashes for portraits, or more controlled shoots, there is no sense spending money on wireless TTL. Finally, remember to buy the version for your brand - These are Nikon and Canon only (332 is for Canon and 331, Nikon).
Pocket Wizard Plus II Transceiver ($170): By far the best way to trigger your flashes. They’re reliable, offer a long range, and never fail. You can also use them as camera remote. But remember, you need two of these - one as a transmitters, and one as a receivers.
I'm sure you'll have a set of certain requirements in mind, but in my experience, the Cactus triggers are a great choice - particularly for beginners.
Stands, Swivels, Umbrellas, and Softboxes
Once you have your basic lighting gear, you have just discovered a whole new world of lighting. It's easy to find many different accessories to modify the light. For instance, there are some made for changing your light’s color, or to make it diffuse differently. But above all those little things, there are a few must-have additions to your kit bag.
First of all, you’ll need some kind of stand. There are many kinds of light stands in the market, so it really depends on your budget and your needs. For a start, the $20 Gadget Infinity Stand is acceptable. They’re quite stable, and the maximum height goes up to 78.5".
Once you have your stand, you’ll need an umbrella swivel. This lets you attach your flash to the light stand and also add an umbrella. Plus, it adds the ability to aim your strobe in almost any direction. You can find them for around $13.
Now you have your flashes standing at a good height, but there's more. Direct flash light is normally harsh, so you’ll need a softer light. To achieve this, there are two options: umbrellas or softboxes.
An umbrella is easier to carry and to fold but, but on the other hand, a softbox produces a more equal light. My recommendation is to use umbrellas on location, and softboxes in the studio. Remember, a softbox is heavier, and they often cause problems on a windy day. Don’t forget to buy the softbox adapter for your speedlight as well. eBay is a good source for umbrellas, and I would recommend a minimum size of 33".
Other Accessories
There are a lot of other accessories and gadgets available for this type of photography - so many that I could almost keep writing forever. Here are a couple that I find particularly useful:
GoBo: This is like a barn door. It’s a way to block the light going from your flash in a direction you choose. My recommendation is to make a DIY one. Put some velcro on your flash head, attach a piece of cardboard, and you’re done. When is this useful? Imagine that you’re using a flash to light your model from the side, and you don’t want to get a bright background. It’s as simple as blocking the inner side of your flash.
Snoot: Imagine this as using four GoBos. It’s like a rectangular tube restricting your light into one direction. Normally a flash spreads and makes a big circle of light. With a snoot, you’ll be able to light a small portion. It’s useful when you want to enhance details - hair, or eyes for instance. And again, the best way to get one is making your own. All you need is an empty cereal box!
Flash Gels: These are small rectangular pieces of gel, made to change the color of your light. The basic ones are CTO and CTB. They stand for "color temperature orange" and "color temperature blue". When you’re shooting in daylight using your flashes, you’ll need an orange gel, because the strobe uses a cooler color temperature.
These can also help you to play with colors, creating cool combinations and effects. The best store to buy them from is FlashGels, where you can find a fifty gel pack for only $20. Remember to use velcro.
How To Use It
The most amazing thing about photography is the lack of limitations, or rules. You're on your own, and experimenting can be really rewarding. The main step is to know simply how to trigger your flashes.
To set up everything, connect the triggers to your flashes and also to the camera. If any of your flashes have optical slaves, you can use them. They allow you to trigger your flash when detecting another one firing and can be useful over short distances.
With your flashes prepared, turn on your camera, and make sure you have the transceiver activated. Depending on your flashes and triggers, you’ll get a power and a maximum range. The first tip is to not use your flashes at maximum power. It takes more time for them to recycle and it also discharges your batteries faster.
The second tip is to know your camera’s maximum syncing speed. Using normal triggers, you can’t have high speed syncing, so usually you can’t go beyond 1/200 or 1/250. And remember, the best way to learn is to practice a lot!
Examples of Lighting
Setting this kit up and "just experimenting" can be a daunting challenge. Where on earth do you start? We've put together a collection of examples and lighting diagrams to show how you can make good use of your new kit.
Every image has the setup shot below, so you can see how arranging lights in a certain way will give you a particular effect:
Be Creative!
By now you should have a good idea of what you need and how to use it - it's your turn to try all this out! Get your neighbour, your best friend, or your cat, and ask them to model for you. Set up your lights, attach umbrellas, add some gels, and believe in yourself. It’s your creation, it’s up to you, so get the best out of yourself and your gear.
Even with only one light, the possibilities are wide and varied. A good way to inspire yourself is to analyse how strobes are used in your favourite photos. Use reverse engineering when you observe photos taken by professionals. Often, you can calculate the lighting setup by simply looking into the eyes of a model!